Chainmail, ring by ring
Weaves, wire gauges, ring sizes and tools, with the numbers worked out. Start with the one that decides everything: aspect ratio.
Check your ring size
Check your ring size
Pick a wire gauge and an inside diameter. See the aspect ratio and which weaves it suits.
Three weaves to learn
Start with the first. Each one asks a little more of your pliers and your patience.
All the guides
Each one gives the numbers, the method and the mistakes that cost the most time. No product pages, no cart.
Weaves
3 guides- Byzantine: a thick, flexible chain from simple rings
How the Byzantine weave is built from rings and pairs, what aspect ratio it needs, why it makes such good bracelets and necklaces, and where beginners go wrong.
European 4-in-1: the weave you learn firstHow the European 4-in-1 weave is built, which ring sizes and aspect ratios work, why it is the standard starter weave, and the mistakes that make a first sheet pucker.
- Japanese 6-in-1: a tight, hexagonal mail
An explanation of the Japanese 6-in-1 style of mail, where each ring links six others, how it differs from 4-in-1, what ring sizes it needs and when it is the right choice.
Rings and wire
5 guides- 16 gauge rings: SWG and AWG are not the same wire
Why 16 gauge means different wire in SWG and AWG, how much thicker SWG is, what that does to aspect ratio, and how to check which one a ring listing means.
- Butted, riveted and welded rings: what the closure really changes
How butted, riveted, welded and solid rings differ, what the closure does to strength and appearance, and which to choose for costume, decoration or serious reproduction armour.
Aspect ratio: the one number that decides whether a weave worksWhat aspect ratio means in chainmail, how to calculate it from wire gauge and inside diameter, typical ranges for common weaves, and how to fix a weave that jams or gapes.
Wire gauge chart for chainmail, with the sizes people actually useA reference chart of wire gauge in SWG and AWG with millimetre and inch diameters and what each size is typically used for in chainmail, from fine jewellery to armour.
- How to make your own chainmail rings
A practical method for making chainmail rings from wire, covering mandrel choice, coiling, cutting, springback and how to check that your rings match.
Tools and metals
3 guides- Aluminum, steel, stainless, copper and more: choosing a metal
A comparison of the metals used for chainmail rings, covering weight, strength, finish, corrosion and cost, with advice on which suits jewellery, costume, armour and kitchen use.
- Chainmail tools: what to buy, what to skip
The tools you need to make chainmail, from two pairs of flat nose pliers to flush cutters, mandrels and calipers, with what to look for in each and what is not worth buying.
- How to open and close rings without ruining them
The twist method for opening and closing chainmail rings, why pulling the ends apart weakens them, how to get a seamless closure and how to fix rings that will not stay shut.
Projects
4 guides- Aluminum or polycarbonate scales: which to build with
A practical comparison of aluminum and polycarbonate scales for scale mail, covering weight, finish, sound, durability and cost, with a checklist for testing before you commit.
- A first chainmail project: a European 4-in-1 bracelet
A step-by-step plan for a beginner chainmail bracelet in European 4-in-1, with ring sizes, how many rings to buy, assembly order and how to attach a clasp.
- How many rings are in a chainmail shirt, and how heavy is it?
A realistic guide to ring counts, weight and build time for a chainmail shirt, with a swatch method to work out your own numbers for any ring size and metal.
- Scale mail dice bag: three ways to build one
How scale mail dice bags are built, the three common constructions, how many scales and rings a 4 by 5 inch bag takes, and how to choose a scale size and finish.
Everyday chainmail
3 guides- Chainmail glove sizing, and what the glove does and does not protect
How to measure your hand for a stainless steel mesh glove, a size chart in inches, millimetres and EN 420 sizes, and what these gloves protect against and where they fall short.
- Chainmail scrubbers for cast iron: how to use one and what to buy
How a stainless chainmail scrubber cleans cast iron without stripping seasoning, how to use and dry it, how to choose one by material and ring size, and common mistakes.
- Chainmail starter kits: what to look for before you buy
What a good beginner chainmail kit contains, how to judge ring size, gauge and metal, what to avoid, and how to decide between a kit and buying rings and tools separately.
Your first piece
A bracelet in European 4-in-1 takes an evening. Five stages, and a guide for each.
Common questions
The six things beginners ask first.
16 SWG or 18 SWG in aluminum. Both are easy to open, strong enough for a bracelet, and cheap to replace when you get one wrong.
The inside diameter of a ring divided by the wire diameter. It tells you whether a weave will jam, hold, or flop. Most beginner projects sit between 3.5 and 4.5.
No. 16 SWG is 1.626 mm and 16 AWG is 1.291 mm, about a fifth thinner. Check which system a listing uses.
Two matching pairs of smooth-jawed flat nose pliers. A digital caliper is the best second purchase.
No. It is for jewellery, costume and decoration. Real protection needs the right wire, riveted or welded rings, and the right construction.
A 4 by 5 inch bag takes about 94 large scales and 245 rings. The scale mail calculator works out your own size.